What Strength Developer Do I Need With Ion Color Brilliance

1. What Is Developer & What Exactly Does it Do?

Developer or Activator is a essentially hydrogen peroxide in a cream base. Information technology is an essential chemical element in any coloration involving permanent hair colour and bleaching procedure.

The hydrogen peroxide opens the pilus cuticle. Information technology also combines with the permanent pilus color or bleach and helps actuate it. Thanks to the developer and color combination, the following 3 things accept identify:

The hair cuticle gets opened so that the color pigments can penetrate it.
The natural color molecules (the hair melanin, in other words) and also molecules from previous color applications become lifted out
New color pigments get delivered and become inserted into the cortex of the hair.
In one case installed, the color molecules swell, develop and expand and ultimately become a permanent office of the hair shaft.
In one case installed correctly thanks to developer, the colour is substantially permanent.
You will but need to worry about regrowth

In addition to the above, the developer + color combination also does the following:

Softens coarse pilus and adds torso to fine pilus.
Alters the internal trunk of the hair fiber permanently.

Which is why hair often feels softer stronger and thicker after a coloring - provided of grade, that information technology has been done correct.

2. How Should I Choose the Right Strength of Developer?

If you lot want to get the best result, it is admittedly important that you cull the right forcefulness of programmer.
The right choice of developer strength can determine whether you lot lift the hair enough or not, and whether yous reach a high quality "3D" color result with correct vibrancy and intensity.
And very crucially, whether you preserve the quality of your or your client's hair.
The forcefulness of developer is expressed in percent (%) or units of volume (Vol.). The higher the number is the stronger the developer is and it therefore more than lightens hair.
Always check your customer's pilus color level and compare information technology to the level you are trying to achieve. The difference is the number of levels that you are trying to lift, and this volition make up one's mind developer choice (and also whether you need to pre-lighten with bleach or non).

3. Which Strength of Developer Should I employ When Using Pilus Colour?

For level on level coloring, or coloring darker, utilize x Book developer (3% peroxide)
For one- 2 level elevator, apply 20 Book developer (6% peroxide)
For two-3 levels lift, apply 30 Book programmer (9% peroxide)
For night pilus yous will need more than iii levels lift.
In such cases yous will need to pre-lighten with bleach and developer showtime.
And so you will demand to color or tone with programmer.
Follow the rules for bleach & developer mix given below when this is the example.

4. Which Strength of Programmer Should I utilize With my Bleach?

For upward to 3 levels elevator, utilise bleach with 20 Vol developer.
For greater than iii levels lift, use bleach with 30 Vol programmer.
For second fourth dimension bleach applications, use just twenty Vol developer. Otherwise y'all volition damage the hair excessively.
For the root surface area, also use 20 Vol unless the hair is really really dark.
Once the hair has been lightened correctly, you lot should simply need to use 20 Vol developer with your color.
Basically, 30 Vol should just be used once, and preferably on the lengths and non on the root area.
Be aware that not all bleaches are the same in terms of lifting properties.
Ugly Duckling bleaches will piece of work very well with xx and 30 Vol developer and will never need anything stronger.

five. Which Force of Programmer Should I use when covering Greyness Hair?

For any grey pilus awarding, use twenty Volume developer (6% peroxide).
Greyness pilus needs extra softening to open.
Also, in the case of table salt and pepper pilus when going blonde, the "pepper" role needs to be lifted upwardly otherwise it volition ever stick out.
Hence xx Volume developer is what y'all should use for grey hair coverage, not x Book (as is sometimes taught in cosmetology classes).

six. Which Strength of Developer Should I apply when toning the pilus blonde?

For toning with Ugly Duckling toners, we recommend that yous use 20 Book developer (6% peroxide)
Ugly Duckling toners are congenital to requite lift and vibrancy. They piece of work best with twenty Vol. developer.

7. Which Strength of Developer Should I use when using high lift colors?

Ugly Duckling loftier lift colors volition give up to five levels lift.
Use these with 30 Vol developer.

8. Which developer forcefulness should I use to go darker?

Employ 10 Vol programmer only to go darker.

9. Should I apply the aforementioned brand of Programmer as my pilus color or bleach?

We practise recommend Ugly Duckling developers. They lift well, in a consistent style.
Always brand certain that you utilise a cream based developer.
Make sure that it is fresh and not by its sell-by date.
If the developer does non conspicuously mark its appointment of industry and sell-by date, that is not a good sign. Don't use it.
Also, make certain that your developer has not been non left opened or in a hot place. Exposure to heat volition dethrone its lifting capability.
In add-on to your programmer, information technology is very important that y'all choose the right brand of color and bleach.
These vary a lot in verbal color result and lifting capability.
Not all color brands produce the same vibrancy of reflects. Some color brands may exist warmer or less vibrant than others.
Ugly Duckling color is in general an ashy range. Our colors tend to be colder and ashier and less warm than most.
Similarly, bleaches vary a lot in lifting power.
Ugly Duckling bleaches give a very proficient elevator with low developer strength, and for this reason nosotros do recommend that you utilise these.

10. How about previous colorations?

Hair that has had color deposited into it volition be harder to lift than virgin hair.
In particular, pilus that has been colored black or night with box dye is notoriously difficult to remove.
Henna hair, metallic dyed hair are also hard to remove.
So are (paradoxically) some semi-permanent colors. Which are often not semi-permanent at all.
These colors piece of work by staining the surface of the pilus and can exist very stubborn.
In such cases y'all would demand to bump upwards the programmer option by one level.

11. How about Porous hair? Which forcefulness of programmer should I use?

Porous hair is easily lifted and it absorbs the colour very well. But the color will fade quickly.
Very ofttimes it is the ends which are porous, whereas the roots and mid-lengths are in much amend status.
Very often these porous ends are blonde anyway.
So if you are trying to become lighter and the ends are blonde and porous you should use a lower volume developer or shorten the processing fourth dimension at the ends past only applying in the last 5-10 minutes or so.
When darkening porous ends, you lot would need to use the regular book of programmer to ensure better penetration of color pigments.

12. I demand to lift a lot & I don't desire to use bleach. Is it OK to use 40 Vol developer with my color instead?

It is not recommended. 40 Vol programmer swells upward the hair cuticle and so much it risks bravado it apart permanently.
You would be better off using a quality bleach which lifts well. Utilize the bleach with 20 Vol or 30 Vol. developer every bit indicated in part four to a higher place.
And so use your color with 20 Vol. developer.
You lot will get much better results that way.

13. I bleached my hair with 30 Vol and my hair is nevertheless orange. Should I use the bleach with 40 Vol programmer?

What bleach were you using?
All bleaches are not the aforementioned and some beauty store bleaches in particular have very poor lifting backdrop.
Using a poor quality bleach with 40 Vol programmer? That'due south request for trouble.

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10 Vol (iii%) Developer

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thirty Vol (9%) Developer

$19.95

xl Vol (12%) Programmer

$19.95

Sally Madison, National Color Trainer.

Emerge has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair colour preparation for Ugly Duckling. She likewise helps develop new & crawly products for the brand.

Source: https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/content/82-which-developer-strength-should-i-use-a-guide-for-colorists

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